Visit Garnet, A Rare Gem in Montana's Gold West Country

The first gold strike on Bear Creek in the Garnet Range occurred around 1865, drawing prospectors from far and wide. Unfortunately, no one struck it too rich over the next 30 years. It wasn’t until the arrival of the Northern Pacific Railroad into Montana, and construction of a gravel road up into the mountains, that heavy equipment could be brought in. Soon thereafter, investors built a 10-stamp mill in nearby First Chance Gulch, and placer mining transitioned to hard rock mining.

After an especially rich vein of ore was discovered in 1896, the town of Garnet boomed. Over the years, the Nancy Hanks mine alone produced about $300,000 and kept many miners employed. During its heyday, about 1,000 people called Garnet home and all types of businesses thrived— from candy stores and butcher shops to saloons, hotels, and a union hall that was also used for social activities. The daily stage line made it easy to come and go. Garnet’s school had 41 students.

In contrast to the lawlessness that plagued most boomtowns, Garnet was a pretty good place to raise a family. Partly because it was settled 30 years after most early mining camps, and partly because it had a cooperative miner’s union, Garnet tended to attract solid, hard-working married men. Family activities such as picnics, hayrides, dances, and quilting bees were more common than drunken card games, even though saloons and gambling existed. Respectable married women far outnumbered prostitutes. Even the gold mine owners were serious entrepreneurs— the remote region perched at 6,000 feet made lode (hard rock) mining an expensive challenge, so they had to be dedicated.

Named for the semi-precious ruby-colored stone found in the area, Garnet might not shine as brightly as she did in the early 1900s, but this ghost town is still considered a gem. Wander inside the J.K. Wells Hotel and see a few original furnishings, albeit a bit shabby from the passing of time. Pretend you’re doing a little shopping in Frank Davey’s store— eggs sold for 30 cents a dozen, coffee for 25 cents a can, butter for 30 cents a pound, and shaving soap was a dime. The Garnet Visitor Center used to be the Dahl Saloon and still has the bar to prove it. Various miners’ cabins, a blacksmith shop, and even a home where newlyweds could live for free until they built their own cabin, are all open to the public.

Garnet’s boom was short. By 1900, many of the veins had disappeared and deeper mine shafts made gold recovery extremely difficult and expensive. By 1905, most of the mines had been abandoned and only 150 tenacious souls remained. A devastating fire in 1912 destroyed much of Garnet’s haphazardly built commercial district, and World War I called most of the remaining residents away to defense-related jobs. All told, an estimated $950,000 was extracted by 1917 from the 20 or so mines in the area. Most of the wealth came from gold, but copper and silver were extracted as well.

In 1934, when President Roosevelt raised gold prices from $16 to $35 an ounce, Garnet experienced a short resurgence. With the higher price and the availability of new refining technology, another wave of miners and their families moved into town and began re-working the old mines. The population was then about 250. However, with the onset of another war in 1939, men were once again drawn away, especially since war restrictions on the use of dynamite made hard rock mining nearly impossible. By 1948, Garnet had slipped into true ghost town status.

If you’re looking for a little exercise before or after exploring Garnet’s old structures, pick up a brochure for the Sierra Mine Loop Trail. Beginning from the parking lot, the mile round-trip through the forest passes numbered posts that correspond to stories in the brochure. You’ll see a few remnants of mining operations for the Sierra Claim and the Forest Lode Claim. These were some of the earliest claims around Garnet, dating to 1872 and 1884.

The brochure describes the workings and workers associated with a mining claim. For example, the Sierra Mine’s best year was 1902, producing 45 pounds of gold, 100 pounds of silver, and 7,500 pounds of copper. Over its lifespan, $750,000 in minerals was hauled out. Although crumbling, you’ll see an old wooden windlass (head frame of a hoisting system that led down into a mine shaft), and relics such as rusty cans, and worn-out boots. Leave everything in its place and as you walk the trail, think about the hardships endured by the early miners. Sometimes all they had were hopeful dreams of wealth just waiting to be realized by the next blast of dynamite, or swing of their pickaxe.

Driving directions to Garnet, Montana: From 1-90 take either the Drummond or Bearmouth exit, then follow the north side frontage road to the Bear Gulch Road and proceed 11 miles up the gravel road. Not suited for trailers or motorhomes.

This article was first published in the Sept/Oct 2012 issue of Gold Prospector.

Another gold mining ghost town in Montana you may wish to visit is Bannack State Park.